Arrival Recife

At 06:35 we entered Recife harbour. Not particularly stunning visually but a very tranquil and safe haven.


The breakwater on the left is built on a natural reef after which the city is named.

We were bound for the Pernambuco Yacht Club situated a couple of miles into the harbour on the seaward side. When we arrived at 07:I5 I expected to anchor but someone appeared on the club pontoon jumped into a dinghy and came out to direct us to and assist us with picking up a club mooring.


I spent some time squaring the boat away before inflating the dinghy and going ashore for an early lunch. At this point the chap who had assisted with mooring appeared and introduced himself as Eduardo. I had to fill out a form and the mooring would cost R$5 per day. Anything I needed he would do his best to assist.

Rernambuco Yacht Club was founded in 1949 but now has only around 20 members and is undergoing an organisational and structural refurbishment.

Eduardo kindly offered to row me across to Recife Island to have a look around. Recife, which means reef, is a very dfferent proposition to Fortaleza. The old town on Recife island, one of three on which the town is built, includes a large number of colonial buildings many of which have been restored or are being restored.

I called at a very helpful tourist office and was provided with event listings and detailed maps. There seems to be a lot going on.


Eduardo returned to collect me and I returned to the boat for a few hours before venturing out to sample some Brazilian music. Here most live music starts around midnight.

I got a taxi to
Jardins Bar e Restaurante just after midnight. Many people eat at the restaurant and stay on for the music. Entertainment was provided by the Forró band Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos. Forró music has it's origins in the north east of Brazil and I really liked it.

Forró dancing is something to behold. The couples legs intertwine and with a close or slightly more distant embrace (depending on how well they know each other?) this posture is maintained throughout the dance as they move about with absolute precision. If it sounds complicated it certainly looked it.

After two and a half non stop hours of music it was time to leave. I've noticed that in Brazil most money changes hands at the cashier. At Jardins guests were issued with a swipe card which bar staff used to record any drinks ordered. Then when one leaves payment is made to the cashier and door staff then check the swipe card to ensure nothing is owed before allowing departure. After the show the cashiers queue was over 30 min long.

I finally got back on board just after 04:00